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i've removed the whole motor <img src="images/smilies/default/titter.gif" smilieid="9" border="0" alt="" /> <br />
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thanks guys~ so this is just like a fuse, right? <img src="images/smilies/default/smile.gif" smilieid="1" border="0" alt="" />
This should be the same 'fuse' commonly found on AWD kit without the T/X.
I often times see new drivers with this thing on their AWD xspeeds, only to find their cars stop in the middle of the track due to over-current. I would strongly recommend to try removing this part to gain higher performance, especially if you want to upgrade your fets.
For cap, PN do offer two different types of cap, and one will see decent performance gain with the new large 'flat' cap. The upside will be more obvious towards the end, when use with battery that will drop Volt soon after the first few minutes.
Stock R is a new stock motor from Atomic, using the endbell design like 540 motor with carbon brushes with shunts & loaded with springs.
It's fast enough on MR02.
I call 大包米 is a cap or diode ( don't really know what it's ) was found in KoPropo couple years ago when playing 1/10. It's soldered on the motor + & -. Some people said it makes the ESC cooler, some say it gives more punch that I ready don't know. The one on all these new series motor for Mini-Z has this thing similar to the one on 1/10.
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4 X 3010 FETS but last week I switched to 4 X SP8M4 since Ah Kie was there in the track.<br />
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Yesterday I bought PN Racing ft tower bar & roll bar.<br />
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Next week what should I buy ?
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that's mean the original PCB can compatiable with most of the motor in the market , not bad ~!
you should buy an EX-1UR and wait for the 2.4G module