Is it ok to switch nitro content or brands of fuel?
There are many opinions on this subject; I feel there are no problems doing either!
The most important thing is to use a good quality fuel!
Personally, I break our engines in on the same nitro we race with, but have had equally good results either way!
The only recommendation I would make is, if you do switch brands it would not hurt to:
1} Let the engine idle a few minutes before you go out on the track.
2} Run ½ to 1 tank of fuel on the rich side.
3} Check your glow plug and if it looks good fine tune and go for it.
The reason I say to check the plug is that different fuels have different oil additives and detergent packages.
This may wash away some of the built up oil deposits and platelets or bonding agents [As the oil companies call them] and foul the plug.
After a few runs your new fuel will leave deposits of there own, some brands you can see the residue because of its blue or red color.
Other brands you can’t see because they’re a light yellow or amber color but rest assured it's there!
It is normal to have these build-ups and it cause’s no harm!
What is the best Fuel?
Blue Thunder Race Formula [Paris/Blend] Has a High castor to synthetic ratio. Castor oil is simply the best lube available for model engines [Alberto Picco and Mario Rossi agree] but not all castors are the same! We use the finest ultra Pure Triple A refined castor. Then we add a synthetic supplement package,
which includes anti foaming and rust properties. There is also a wetting agent to aid in Lubricity and reduce storage dry out. The fuel is manufactured with
the latest high tech computer controlled mixing equipment; using the freshest lab tested and certified USA made nitro and methanol by the largest manufacture of model fuel in the world.
Should I use after run oil:
Race Formula Blue Thunder is a high castor blend that includes 3% Synthetic with anti gumming agents.
It is always a good idea to use some after run oil.
First let the tank run completely empty at idle until it runs out of fuel [try re-starting it several times]
Next put a few drops down the carb [open] and a few drops down the glow Plug hole [leave the plug out and put a rag over the top of the engine]
And spin it over for 5 seconds on the starter box.
Last put a few more drops down the carb re install the glow pug and spin The engine over 5 more seconds.
That will do it!
We May be releasing a after run oil but in the meantime Marvel Mystery oil works great and can be had at any automotive or hardware store.
Other substitutes would be automatic Trans fluid, 3in1 oil or Mineral oil from the drug store! NEVER USE ANY OILS THAT CONTAINE SILICONES!!!
Cleaning your Engine:
First, follow the after run oil instructions above!
Remove the engine from the car, you can then wash it off just be careful not to wash dirt into the front bearing [even if it has a rubber sealed
type]
I brush it off behind the flywheel then rap a strip of cloth around the crank, “wedging” it between the front of the engine and back of the
flywheel.
I then plug the carb and exhaust [be sure there is a glow plug installed] then squirt it off with methanol or denatured alcohol
[Not Isopropyl it is 30% water]
I do not recommend brake cleaner or motor spray.
Then blow of off with compressed air if you do not have compressed air shake the engine vigorously and blow it off until dry with a hair dryer, being careful
not to get it HOT just warm to the touch.
Last I remove the strip of cloth let the engine come to ambient temp [so there is no condensation formed inside] and put it in a zip lock bag or re-install in
your car!
You can see many other useful tech tips at the Paris web site
http://web.archive.org/web/200104290...risracing.com/ [go to tech tips on
third page]
Good luck and enjoy your new Paris Racing Engine,
Ron Paris
Page 3
Engine Break In And Tuning For The New and Experienced Racer:
Revised 12-30-99
Engine Break in for the for the New Racer:
I was honored when the gang at R/C Car magazine asked if I would collaborate on a tuning article geared to the new and hobby racers!
With the continued growth of 1/10 off road and Explosion of sedan racers, there was a need for a generic tuning guide.
Well here it is, it was very informative as written by the gang at the magazine, I simply added a few tips and clarifications based on the hundreds of tech
questions we receive.
Enjoy,
-Ron
How to Break In your New Engine
Patience is the secret to success!
If you’ve read a few issues of this magazine, you’ve probably noticed that we devote quite a few pages each month to nitro-powered vehicles and
accessories. Critics might say that we prefer nitro over electric powered, but the truth is that we are simply covering what’s going on in the R/C industry—
nitro is hot at the moment, and we’d be failing you if we didn’t provide comprehensive coverage!
Surely, one of the reasons for nitro’s popularity rests in the quality of the engines themselves. Most of today’s engines are manufactured to be easy to
use and to maintain, and many sport-level powerplants have been designed to be incredibly user-friendly. For absolute novices, we still recommend electricpower
over nitro, but if you should decide to take the plunge, you’ll find that most engines are quite easy to get running.
Above all else, your success or failure with a nitro engine depends on how well it’s been broken in—and this is entirely up to you and the amount of
patience you have. The more time you take to properly break-in your new engine, the better it will run. A well broken-in engine will develop more power
and higher rpm, and will run much more consistently than an engine that had been rushed into race settings.
IT’S ALL IN THE CARB
Everything that’s needed to ensure your engine’s long life is contained in its carburetor. Most carbs have three adjustments that you’ll need to
familiarize yourself with: The first, and most important, is the high-speed needle setting. This needle valve controls the mixture of fuel and air that enters the
engine’s combustion chamber during high-rpm running. More fuel in this mixture causes a “rich” condition, while less fuel (more air) causes a “lean”
condition. A richer high-speed needle setting will actually help keep the engine running cooler as it reduces rpm, and because there is more fuel passing
through the combustion chamber, a bit of “liquid cooling” actually takes place. A leaner setting will allow the engine to achieve higher rpm, but will also
cause it to run hotter.
A properly set high-speed needle will provide a compromise between a cool temperature and high rpm. Needless to say (but we’ll remind you
anyway), extremes in either direction aren’t good, but nobody ever blew up their engine by running it too rich!
Many racing engines also have a secondary needle-valve adjustment that is used to control the engine’s low-speed fuel/air mixture. This needle is used
to adjust the way the engine makes the transition from low to high rpm. It also helps control the fuel mixture when the engine is idling. A low-speed needle
setting that is rich will reduce throttle response at low rpm, and may make the car sluggish coming out of tight turns. A leaner setting will allow the engine to
make more power during low rpm operation.
Many modern sport-type nitro engines have eliminated the low-speed needle entirely. While this doesn’t allow for the highest level of tuning for the
experience racer, having one fewer needle to fuss with does make these engines much more user-friendly to the beginner, who only need set the high-speed
needle.
Finally, there’s the idle-stop screw. Basically, this screw is used to keep the carb’s slide or barrel from becoming totally closed (which would stop the
engine from running). A small opening of the carb allows just enough air and fuel to mix and keep the engine running. Setting the idle is usually done after you’ve properly set both the high- and low-speed needles.