唔知有幾多個人會(目弟)我打左 d mud...
PROBLEMS
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1) Screws are "sucks". They are not "hex-headed" and they r not sharp enough.
2) All the holes (for screwing in) are way too tight.
3) The lower suspension shafts are slight too tight as well.
4) The rear input shaft was not fitted well (a bit lose, not sit in place, moving forward / backward)
5) Gear box's covers
6) Top deck
TIPS (WISH THOSE COULD HELP)
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1) Change it to Ti screws/hex head
2) Use the body reamer to get the slot slightly bigger to start with, otherwise, you is not going to screw in STRIGHT through
3) Clamp the pin (shaft) to the electric drill and sand it down a little bit by using #800 sand papers then finish with #1200
4) Put both of the shims on the "gear side" on ball diff. this will be pushed slightly into the smaller bevel gear to hold the shaft in place. But the disadvantage is, will cause a bit of drag on the drive drain. And for the front diff, put both shims
On one side (as shown in the pic) to push the bevel gear away to smoothen the drive drain.
5) Either drill a 3mm hole (two holes each) on the damper mount (right above the inner screws of gear box's cover) or use a "ball headed" wrench.
Otherwise you won’t be able to open the gear box without moving off the damper mount.
6) there is a little notch that comes out form the top deck (as shown in the pic) will push the motor towards the front and causing a very bad tweak to the chassis. So, simply sand off the notch (as shown in the pic) to clear away from the motor mount.
7) 9550 is preferable. This will create more room for the ESC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
[ 本帖最後由 James 於 2006-1-11 20:36 編輯 ] |
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