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低重心Subaru調高roll centre分享

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1#
billy86che 發表於 2008-2-12 00:14:03 | 只看該作者 回帖獎勵 |倒序瀏覽 |閱讀模式
2#
椰禮 發表於 2008-2-12 00:19:18 | 只看該作者
出動到波子tim??
3#
ckwu 發表於 2008-2-12 07:29:22 | 只看該作者
the camber angle and wheel 指向性 is so off
4#
 樓主| billy86che 發表於 2008-2-12 11:42:47 | 只看該作者
5#
ckwu 發表於 2008-2-12 17:00:52 | 只看該作者
原帖由 billy86che 於 2008-2-12 11:42 發表

Off? Did you mean 'loose'?
其實虛位仲少左.


left and right camber/caster/toe angle is uneven, cornering ability will be unbalance
6#
 樓主| billy86che 發表於 2008-2-12 17:59:44 | 只看該作者
原帖由 ckwu 於 2008-2-12 17:00 發表


left and right camber/caster/toe angle is uneven, cornering ability will be unbalance


They are all adjustable, like a 1/10 touring car.

[ 本帖最後由 billy86che 於 2008-2-12 18:01 編輯 ]
7#
 樓主| billy86che 發表於 2008-2-13 00:19:36 | 只看該作者
Here is how I can adjust the camber and the roll centre. I'm sorry that Caster is fixed (zero).
8#
ckwu 發表於 2008-2-13 05:04:47 | 只看該作者
adjustment not equal to correct geormetry
flexibility to adjustment cannot beat precision engineering
but good concept and innovation.  I really respect your creativity and craftsmanship on this project.  Keep up the good work and take your time to refine the engineering and design maybe even make some money or bless us with this design
9#
 樓主| billy86che 發表於 2008-2-13 12:08:39 | 只看該作者
原帖由 ckwu 於 2008-2-13 05:04 發表
adjustment not equal to correct geormetry
flexibility to adjustment cannot beat precision engineering
but good concept and innovation.  I really respect your creativity and craftsmanship on this pr ...



There was a time you mentioned "off" and then you said "uneven" & "unbalance' and now you speak of "correct geometry". It is difficult to find your focus. In fact, the adjustment of the location of roll centre is to work with different tracks and the original roll centre was wrong due to the simple design of the bearing knuckle. You should have learnt that with your claimed experience in real car mechanics.

You said, "left and right camber/caster/toe angle is uneven". How do you know that if you haven't done any measurement first? (雖然我知道唔係為100%一樣,但係我用尺度過都好準,原裝啲膠都'口脾'得唔準啦.)

[ 本帖最後由 billy86che 於 2008-2-13 13:03 編輯 ]
10#
scalpel 發表於 2008-2-13 13:20:42 | 只看該作者
Excellent DIY! And you are using Li battery?
11#
 樓主| billy86che 發表於 2008-2-13 13:45:39 | 只看該作者
原帖由 scalpel 於 2008-2-13 13:20 發表
Excellent DIY! And you are using Li battery?


Yes, it's lipo.
12#
scalpel 發表於 2008-2-13 13:54:01 | 只看該作者
原帖由 billy86che 於 2008-2-13 13:45 發表


Yes, it's lipo.


How long the Lipo battery last? I mean the play time...
13#
 樓主| billy86che 發表於 2008-2-13 14:05:29 | 只看該作者
原帖由 scalpel 於 2008-2-13 13:54 發表


How long the Lipo battery last? I mean the play time...


They are about 700mah, 7.4V so with an appropriately tuned motor of 50 turns, I run it for about 13 minutes with the speed of other cars using a 3?T motor. I won't allow the battery to run flat.
14#
scalpel 發表於 2008-2-13 14:26:50 | 只看該作者
原帖由 billy86che 於 2008-2-13 14:05 發表


They are about 700mah, 7.4V so with an appropriately tuned motor of 50 turns, I run it for about 13 minutes with the speed of other cars using a 3?T motor. I won't allow the battery to run flat.


Sounds not bad!
15#
ckwu 發表於 2008-2-13 18:04:20 | 只看該作者
Let make it simple, the location and placement of the mount plus positioning on the chassis is not going to be 100% balance/even from left to right even if you think the measurement is right especially it is all DIY.  When I said 指向性 off it mean that not all 4 wheel "toe" setting is close 0 degree(pointing stright forward) or even left and right plus "camber angle" is not equal left and right.  Maybe it is just because you set it up for one special track, I do not know.  All I know is the 4 tire you have on the car is all cut(worn) differently, that mean the car is not balance(same as 指向性 off ).  Cars engineer use a lot of time to design and calculate the geometry on how long/short and where to put the control arm(like the bigger car:1/10RC) and where the pivot point is.  It is to evenly share the load(weight) and weight transfer of the car.  If a new car come out not going stright with no hand steering or tire with abnormal wear after 2-3 month, we call it defect and we have to fix it with precision measurement tools that measure down to 0.01 degree(for all camber/caster/toe).
16#
ckwu 發表於 2008-2-13 18:16:17 | 只看該作者
I understand it is a DIY and the original car come out off assemble line, so it is not going to be 100準.  I am just saying that in time you may want to remake some part to operate better or even change some design on different parts to make it work better. I just want to encourage you not to stop here, go one step more to make it better and better.  I would told you this, since I work with cars, thats why I wouldnt redesign the car like you did, I will worry too much about what all I just said the donno where to start(plus too lazy), I would only go as far as upgrading parts and/or mordifing/trimming parts for better fittment and balance.
To make it simple, good job and keep up the good work.
17#
 樓主| billy86che 發表於 2008-2-13 18:57:30 | 只看該作者
原帖由 ckwu 於 2008-2-13 18:04 發表
Cars engineer use a lot of time to design and calculate the geometry on how long/short and where to put the control arm(like the bigger car:1/10RC) and where the pivot point is.  It is to evenly share the load(weight) and weight transfer of the car.  If a new car come out not going stright with no hand steering or tire with abnormal wear after 2-3 month, we call it defect and we have to fix it with precision measurement tools that measure down to 0.01 degree(for all camber/caster/toe).


This is a mini-z and the tyres wear every pack of battery. The clearance between the bulkheads and the knuckles of the wheels is more than 1 degree even when the mini-z is brand new, not to mention 0.01. If you really knew a lot about the AWD, you wouldn't have asked in the forum about how to set up a MR015 and an Enzo MR02 somewhere in this forum.

This car is 2 years old and I have been running it at both CT and MMS. I started with the MR01 when it first came to the market and have not stopped playing with the 1/28 till now.

I do whatever I can to make it run faster on tracks, not to make sure that it runs 100% straight nor to seek for the endurance, safety and driving leisure that real cars have to offer.

[ 本帖最後由 billy86che 於 2008-2-13 19:18 編輯 ]
18#
deadmatch 發表於 2008-2-13 21:46:15 | 只看該作者
老師的作品真是漂亮,我的新車就快可以見到基本車型了,老師一定要多多指教,教導後輩a。
19#
ckwu 發表於 2008-2-14 07:23:07 | 只看該作者
原帖由 deadmatch 於 2008-2-13 21:46 發表
老師的作品真是漂亮,我的新車就快可以見到基本車型了,老師一定要多多指教,教導後輩a。

do you have more pics, let cc
20#
ckwu 發表於 2008-2-14 07:54:59 | 只看該作者
原帖由 billy86che 於 2008-2-13 18:57 發表


This is a mini-z and the tyres wear every pack of battery. The clearance between the bulkheads and the knuckles of the wheels is more than 1 degree even when the mini-z is brand new, not to mentio ...

I am not going to waist time with you, go out and find a book that talk about real car suspension setup like in option or cars and driver and you will know what I am talking about. My brother always post different question and stuff with this account too.  In LA, not many people play 1:28, they all play 1:8 and 1:10, so its hard for me to play/test/set/etc... and I may not know as much about mini z as you do.  Don't XXXX question my real car experience when I never question yours with mini z.  Time it take to wear down the tire is not going to make that much different, but how it got wear down thats what I am studing with your car.  I may not know as much about mini z, but the idea on suspension setting/weight distribution/weight transfer/tire choice is the same doesn't matter 1:1 or 1:100.  Thats all I am trying to improvise here.
I do also have desire to build my mini z go as fast as it can, but I just dont have the heart and ambition to as far as you do.  I really admire that.
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